PENGHU, Taiwan – When Yeh Chih-sheng steps aboard Taiwan Coast Guard vessel CG1005 in the choppy waters of the Taiwan Strait, he brings more than his uniform and orders: he also has temple charms blessed by the gods revered by fishers for protection at sea. Yeh is first mate of the 2,400-ton ship based in Taiwan’s Penghu islands, and part of Taipei’s maritime front line as China asserts its claim of sovereignty over the democratically governed island.
Off duty, he is an assistant priest, or ”sio-huat” in Taiwanese, at a Penghu temple devoted to the Five Lords — guardian deities long worshipped by coastal communities for safe seas and protection from plague. Yeh has served the gods since primary school, helping spirit mediums during rituals in which deities are believed to descend from the heavens and deliver instructions.
“The Coast Guard is a tangible backing people can see,” Yeh said. “The Five Lords are a spiritual anchor in people’s hearts. Both help bring fishermen and ordinary people a sense of reassurance.”
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